Meo-Camuzet Clos de Vougeot 2020 in Giftbox

The 2020 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru is very promising, unfurling in the glass with aromas of wild berries, cherries, orange rind, potpourri and loamy soil. Full-bodied, velvety and concentrated, it’s seamless and complete, with superb depth at the core and a long, resonant finish. It will be fascinating to compare with the 2019 rendition in two decades’ time. Jean-Nicolas Méo began his harvest on August 23, and he has produced another fine vintage at this Vosne-Romanée reference point. Méo has always done well in warm, sunny vintages (as a lovely bottle of his 2003 Nuits Lavières recently reminded me), and 2020 is no exception. Indeed, for a vintage that was generally somewhat primary and frequently tightly wound this winter, Méo’s wines—habitually quite backward after 12 months’ élevage—were remarkably put together and expressive. Mostly landing at around 13.5% alcohol, they’re vibrant, concentrated and nicely balanced, showing considerable aging potential.