Clos des Lambrays 2009

The 2009 Clos des Lambrays continues to shine. The self-effacing Thierry Brouin has conjured an exquisite bouquet of wild strawberry, scorched earth, small red cherries and a touch of undergrowth. Brouin’s style is to keep everything contained, natural and unpretentious and so you get a comparatively conservative Clos des Lambrays that is underpinned by light, tensile tannins, with a veneer of red fruit, not great weight but rather weightlessness that is unusual for this vintage. It is in keeping with the domaine’s approach to Pinot Noir, one that I have learned to appreciate more and more with passing years.