G. Conterno Monfortino 1974 Barolo Riserva

A massively concentrated and powerful Monfortino packed with flavors of ripe dark cherries, wet earth, tar, and licorice. The wine offers layers and layers of flavors that continue to unfold in a drinking experience that only a great wine can provide, although my sense is that this Monfortino is revealing only a fraction of its true potential. Roberto Conterno says his 1974s are still very young. I wish I had known that beforehand.

It is extraordinary the way this Monfortino plays on chiaroscuro. The color is identical to the 1978 even if the aroma may be less intense. The bouquet again has scents of underbrush, fallen leaves and new mushrooms, along with the usual mint and some spicy notes. The finish is surprising and moving with its return of dark chocolate, Cavendish pipe tobacco and the wealth of balsamic nuances. The mouthfeel remains dominated by that type of acidity that makes it eternal and bonds with very understated and silky tannins.